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juushikaMARIE (GC, Diabolus)
A blend of sinuous violet and elegant tea rose.
With select exceptions, I care little for floral, so I didn't expect to like this very much. However, I'm fond of violet and my boyfriend is fond of rose, so I was willing to give it a go.
In the vial: Nondescript florals. Granted, I have little experience with florals and so I'm no good at picking them out, but I still can't differentiate violet from rose in the vial. The scent is definitely floral, but not overly complex or cloying. There's a slight sharpness to it, but it's not unpleasant.
On me: The scent doesn't change much on my skin but, pardoning the pun, the fragrance does blossom and so develop into fullness. The same mixed floral is there, but I can pick out the rose, which begins as cloying and then goes sharp and almost bitter—as rose always is on my skin, or at least has been so far. I find it harder to pick out the violet, but it rounds out the scent to a well-blended, simple floral and is a little sweet against the sharp rose. Although I have an easier time picking out the rose, it's not predominant: the scent is evenly balanced between the two flowers. There's an odd touch of what seems like lavender and might be the greenery from the rose, something sharp, dry, and almost herbal.
Verdict: I don't find Marie unpleasant, but I don't particularly like it either. The rose is sharp and somewhat harsh on my skin, and the violet is too sweet. The blend isn't artificial, but it does lack a certain depth and character: it's a rounded pair of florals, a little sweet and a little bitter, unassuming, and somewhat simple. I also just plain don't care for straight florals, so this isn't the scent for me. I wouldn't recommend this as a floral for people like me who usually avoid them, but floral lovers will probably have better luck with it.
SATYR (GC, Ars Amatoria)
A ferociously masculine scent: sexual, vigorous, and truly wild.
I received this scent (a whole bottle!) from a friend (![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
kaimetso) who had bad luck with it. The description has always intrigued me, so I was interested in trying it, but the more I read the reviews the more worried I became. It was too sweaty-goat for my male friend, and I'm pretty darn female, so I was worried it would be way too musky.
In the vial: Spicy musk, with just a little too much bite—there's something in there which is almost bitter. It's not unpleasant, but it seems a mite strong. The oil itself is brown and shows up clearly on my skin, which is wonderful for application—as just a little swipe is enough.
On me: The blend sweetens as I wear it, so after the drydown the musk pairs pretty equally with a full sweetness that does remind me a lot of vanilla. It's not cloying, not sugary, but is very well rounded and is almost but not quite foody. The musk (civet?) is almost single note animalistic: it's furry, wild, like sniffing deep on a beast's fur. This reminds me of Ivanushka, not so much in smell but in sensation: Ivanushka is the velvet tan fur of a deer, and Satyr is the dark brown shag of a bear or, well, a satyr—made more wearable by the vanilla, which lightens and rounds the scent.
Verdict: I need never have worried. Satyr is, which my skin chemistry at least, very wearable. The boy loves it on me (although he says it almost smells like something he should eat), and I love that the vanilla sweetness amps on me enough to pair with and balance the musk, which might otherwise be too heavy. I love the furry animalistic feel of it, and on me it's more comfortable than sexy, like cuddling up against a big protective beast, leaning in to his sweet warmth. Will I ever get through the whole bottle? Probably not, because I only need a little swipe of it and 5ml is an awful lot. But I'll be happy to have it, and it will be a great alternative to LE Ivanushka when I want to cuddle with a furry animal—scent-wise, at least.
DE SADE (GC, Sin & Salvation)
The raw scent of leather.
This wasn't a blend that I was too interested in trying, but when a friend (yeah,kaimetso again) offered to send it along with some I did want, I figured it would be as good a time as any to try leather, which is a new BPAL note for me. I don't have any strong affinity for or associations with leather, so I had few preconceptions going in.
In the vial: Something bitter, acrid, and indistinct.
On me: I got nothin'. Well, almost nothing. The scent seems very white to me—there just isn't much there. I think my skin swallows most of it, leaving an empty space where it should be. The only remaining fragrance is the bitter, artificial smell of low-quality leather, the kind that is almost waxy to the touch. It's reminiscent of the vial scent, a little bitter.
Verdict: In a way, this experiment was a fine success—I wanted to know if predominant leather notes work for me, and the answer is a pretty clear "no." That's not too much of a loss—I tend to have pretty good skin chemistry, especially for the notes I want to wear, so I don't mind missing out on leather. As for the imp itself, I won't be keeping it, but I'm sure I can find someone else who wants to try it.
DRAGON'S REVERIE (GC, Ars Draconis)
Dragon’s blood resin, poppy, amber and ylang ylang.
This was (yet another!) generous offering fromkaimetso, and I was anxious to try it. I have no experience with opium/poppy, and the idea of dragon's blood resin toned down by something dreamy and smoky was very intriguing.
In the vial: Dragon's blood resin (in its bright and fruity/floral form) with whiffs of incense or smoke that almost make my nose itch. Not very well blended at all.
On me: Dragon's blood resin is usually very vibrant on my skin, sometimes blood-rich, sometimes a little too sweet or fruity. So I was surprised to find that the DBR here is entirely different—not bright, not sweet, it's toned down and richer, resinous, a deep polished ruby. It's not what I expected to find at the heart of this blend, but I love that it's there. Around it, the other notes are smoky and obscuring, a bit floral, a bit incensy, dark and cloudy but never heavy. Combined, this blend is very evocative but never too complex, still a lovely perfume: it's mysterious, rich, layered, never too busy, too dark, or too strong.
Verdict: Poppy/opium was an entirely new note for me, and at this first whiff I'm quite impressed. It tones down the DBR into sometime completely different, something deeper and more subtle, and it makes for a lovely perfume. I'm not sure how often I'll reach for it, as it is a very specific sort of scent—a bit sultry, very dreamy, still with a deep red heart—but when I'm in that mood, this will be a wonderful imp to have around. I'm glad I got the chance to try it, and it makes me want to add poppy blends to my wishlist.
GOLDEN PRIAPUS (GC, Ars Amatoria)
A truly carnal, energetic men’s blend: vanilla and amber with juniper, rosewood and white pine.
I've always found descriptions of this scent to be intriguing, so I was happy to have the chance to try it (also a gift fromkaimetso)... but a little worried that it might be too unusual to be truly pleasant, or too masculine to suit me.
In vial: Juniper and pine.
On me: Juniper and something sweet (vanilla) at first, it quickly begins to warm and lose the sharpness of the juniper and pine. Once it dries down, it's entirely different and really quite pleasant—like many people, I find it reminiscent of Snake Oil, a combination of rich wet sweetness from the vanilla and all number of grounding notes: golden amber (more yellow than red, it almost reminds me a cedar), something spicy (rosewood?), something a bit sharp (definitely the pine). While it is lovely to smell, it's just a bit unusual, makes me come back to sniff again and contemplate what makes it different. The overall impression is very warm, very distinct, but not overtly masculine or sexual. In fact, while it is a touch masculine for feminine-me, I don't know how I'd feel about smelling it on a man—there's a bit too much vanilla for me to imagine it.
Verdict: I like this, and I'm glad I had the chance to try it. It's a unique scent, an odd combination that makes it seem perfectly normal at first blush but then, on second thought, a little sharp where you weren't expecting sharp, a little spicy without any spicy notes, just unexpected enough that you have to reconsider it. It's difficult to describe and truly unique. I don't know how often I'll wear it—I find the vanilla sweetness to be too full and a little cloying sometimes, and the masculine edge on me produces a strange gender ambiguity that I'd really have to be in the mood for. But for all of that, I really rather like it, and the boy likes it on me, so I'll be keeping the imp around for those certain whims and moods.
A blend of sinuous violet and elegant tea rose.
With select exceptions, I care little for floral, so I didn't expect to like this very much. However, I'm fond of violet and my boyfriend is fond of rose, so I was willing to give it a go.
In the vial: Nondescript florals. Granted, I have little experience with florals and so I'm no good at picking them out, but I still can't differentiate violet from rose in the vial. The scent is definitely floral, but not overly complex or cloying. There's a slight sharpness to it, but it's not unpleasant.
On me: The scent doesn't change much on my skin but, pardoning the pun, the fragrance does blossom and so develop into fullness. The same mixed floral is there, but I can pick out the rose, which begins as cloying and then goes sharp and almost bitter—as rose always is on my skin, or at least has been so far. I find it harder to pick out the violet, but it rounds out the scent to a well-blended, simple floral and is a little sweet against the sharp rose. Although I have an easier time picking out the rose, it's not predominant: the scent is evenly balanced between the two flowers. There's an odd touch of what seems like lavender and might be the greenery from the rose, something sharp, dry, and almost herbal.
Verdict: I don't find Marie unpleasant, but I don't particularly like it either. The rose is sharp and somewhat harsh on my skin, and the violet is too sweet. The blend isn't artificial, but it does lack a certain depth and character: it's a rounded pair of florals, a little sweet and a little bitter, unassuming, and somewhat simple. I also just plain don't care for straight florals, so this isn't the scent for me. I wouldn't recommend this as a floral for people like me who usually avoid them, but floral lovers will probably have better luck with it.
SATYR (GC, Ars Amatoria)
A ferociously masculine scent: sexual, vigorous, and truly wild.
I received this scent (a whole bottle!) from a friend (
kaimetso) who had bad luck with it. The description has always intrigued me, so I was interested in trying it, but the more I read the reviews the more worried I became. It was too sweaty-goat for my male friend, and I'm pretty darn female, so I was worried it would be way too musky.In the vial: Spicy musk, with just a little too much bite—there's something in there which is almost bitter. It's not unpleasant, but it seems a mite strong. The oil itself is brown and shows up clearly on my skin, which is wonderful for application—as just a little swipe is enough.
On me: The blend sweetens as I wear it, so after the drydown the musk pairs pretty equally with a full sweetness that does remind me a lot of vanilla. It's not cloying, not sugary, but is very well rounded and is almost but not quite foody. The musk (civet?) is almost single note animalistic: it's furry, wild, like sniffing deep on a beast's fur. This reminds me of Ivanushka, not so much in smell but in sensation: Ivanushka is the velvet tan fur of a deer, and Satyr is the dark brown shag of a bear or, well, a satyr—made more wearable by the vanilla, which lightens and rounds the scent.
Verdict: I need never have worried. Satyr is, which my skin chemistry at least, very wearable. The boy loves it on me (although he says it almost smells like something he should eat), and I love that the vanilla sweetness amps on me enough to pair with and balance the musk, which might otherwise be too heavy. I love the furry animalistic feel of it, and on me it's more comfortable than sexy, like cuddling up against a big protective beast, leaning in to his sweet warmth. Will I ever get through the whole bottle? Probably not, because I only need a little swipe of it and 5ml is an awful lot. But I'll be happy to have it, and it will be a great alternative to LE Ivanushka when I want to cuddle with a furry animal—scent-wise, at least.
DE SADE (GC, Sin & Salvation)
The raw scent of leather.
This wasn't a blend that I was too interested in trying, but when a friend (yeah,
kaimetso again) offered to send it along with some I did want, I figured it would be as good a time as any to try leather, which is a new BPAL note for me. I don't have any strong affinity for or associations with leather, so I had few preconceptions going in.In the vial: Something bitter, acrid, and indistinct.
On me: I got nothin'. Well, almost nothing. The scent seems very white to me—there just isn't much there. I think my skin swallows most of it, leaving an empty space where it should be. The only remaining fragrance is the bitter, artificial smell of low-quality leather, the kind that is almost waxy to the touch. It's reminiscent of the vial scent, a little bitter.
Verdict: In a way, this experiment was a fine success—I wanted to know if predominant leather notes work for me, and the answer is a pretty clear "no." That's not too much of a loss—I tend to have pretty good skin chemistry, especially for the notes I want to wear, so I don't mind missing out on leather. As for the imp itself, I won't be keeping it, but I'm sure I can find someone else who wants to try it.
DRAGON'S REVERIE (GC, Ars Draconis)
Dragon’s blood resin, poppy, amber and ylang ylang.
This was (yet another!) generous offering from
kaimetso, and I was anxious to try it. I have no experience with opium/poppy, and the idea of dragon's blood resin toned down by something dreamy and smoky was very intriguing.In the vial: Dragon's blood resin (in its bright and fruity/floral form) with whiffs of incense or smoke that almost make my nose itch. Not very well blended at all.
On me: Dragon's blood resin is usually very vibrant on my skin, sometimes blood-rich, sometimes a little too sweet or fruity. So I was surprised to find that the DBR here is entirely different—not bright, not sweet, it's toned down and richer, resinous, a deep polished ruby. It's not what I expected to find at the heart of this blend, but I love that it's there. Around it, the other notes are smoky and obscuring, a bit floral, a bit incensy, dark and cloudy but never heavy. Combined, this blend is very evocative but never too complex, still a lovely perfume: it's mysterious, rich, layered, never too busy, too dark, or too strong.
Verdict: Poppy/opium was an entirely new note for me, and at this first whiff I'm quite impressed. It tones down the DBR into sometime completely different, something deeper and more subtle, and it makes for a lovely perfume. I'm not sure how often I'll reach for it, as it is a very specific sort of scent—a bit sultry, very dreamy, still with a deep red heart—but when I'm in that mood, this will be a wonderful imp to have around. I'm glad I got the chance to try it, and it makes me want to add poppy blends to my wishlist.
GOLDEN PRIAPUS (GC, Ars Amatoria)
A truly carnal, energetic men’s blend: vanilla and amber with juniper, rosewood and white pine.
I've always found descriptions of this scent to be intriguing, so I was happy to have the chance to try it (also a gift from
kaimetso)... but a little worried that it might be too unusual to be truly pleasant, or too masculine to suit me.In vial: Juniper and pine.
On me: Juniper and something sweet (vanilla) at first, it quickly begins to warm and lose the sharpness of the juniper and pine. Once it dries down, it's entirely different and really quite pleasant—like many people, I find it reminiscent of Snake Oil, a combination of rich wet sweetness from the vanilla and all number of grounding notes: golden amber (more yellow than red, it almost reminds me a cedar), something spicy (rosewood?), something a bit sharp (definitely the pine). While it is lovely to smell, it's just a bit unusual, makes me come back to sniff again and contemplate what makes it different. The overall impression is very warm, very distinct, but not overtly masculine or sexual. In fact, while it is a touch masculine for feminine-me, I don't know how I'd feel about smelling it on a man—there's a bit too much vanilla for me to imagine it.
Verdict: I like this, and I'm glad I had the chance to try it. It's a unique scent, an odd combination that makes it seem perfectly normal at first blush but then, on second thought, a little sharp where you weren't expecting sharp, a little spicy without any spicy notes, just unexpected enough that you have to reconsider it. It's difficult to describe and truly unique. I don't know how often I'll wear it—I find the vanilla sweetness to be too full and a little cloying sometimes, and the masculine edge on me produces a strange gender ambiguity that I'd really have to be in the mood for. But for all of that, I really rather like it, and the boy likes it on me, so I'll be keeping the imp around for those certain whims and moods.
