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juushikaQUEEN OF CLUBS (LE, Forum Only)
Soft, deep earth notes with myrrh, amber, pomegranate, incense, red currant, rose and vanilla.
In the vial: Deep fruit against a dark background. It's slightly tart, almost reminding me of plum; there's a faint floral component in the background.
On me: Rose usually steals the show on my skin, but thankfully it stays subdued here. And goodness, with obedient rose this is simply lovely. Slightly tart, full, red fruit (primarily pomegranate) just touched by velvety red rose, set against a shadowed background of resin and a touch of dirt. Full, rich, dark, tart, slightly sweet—and I am in love. It reminds me distinctly a more nuanced, complex itteration of Hymn to Proserpine. Scent color is shadowed and subdued burgundy. Throw is moderate, but wear length is very long.
Verdict: I've wanted to try Queen of Clubs for a while, though the rose and rarity made me hesitate. Receiving it as a gift has been a blessing—because it is lovely and has bowled me head over heels. When I need something more complex than Hymn to Proserpine, I'll reach for this treasured imp. Feminine, powerful, rich, fruit against darkness—this is everything the description implies, but more lovely than I had imagined.
PERSEPHONE (GC, Excolo)
Pomegranate and rose.
In the vial: Why hello there, rose—but it's a sweeter, smoother version of rose than I'm used to. The pomegranate is not as tart as I expected, and rather rounds out the scent into a very rich, warm, sweetened fruity-floral.
On me: Ah, there is something of the missing tartness—which amps at first and then fades a bit during wear. Pomegranate and rose indeed: the rose is velvety, lush, and thickly floral; the pom is full, rich red, and fruity. The touch of tartness makes the scent more unique and less Glade candle. It's not particularly complex, but this scent is pleasant, lush, feminine, and full. Scent color is crimson. Throw is moderate to high.
Verdict: Persephone is pleasant, but it's a bit too simple and too floral for my tastes. I don't love it as much as the other pomegranate scents which I've had the pleasure to try lately. I do like it more than I expected, so don't necessarily let the rose scare you away—but this is without doubt a feminine fruity-floral blend. I'll forgo this for my other, darker pomegranate loves, but I'm glad I had the chance to try it.
RED LANTERN (LE, Lupercalia 2006)
Golden amber, blonde tobacco, Sudanese black coconut, rich caramel, black currant, white opium and delphinium laced with a sensual blend of Asian spice.
In the vial: Smoky, dark, and sweet—in the bottle, it's a darker cousin to Glowing Vulva, oddly enough.
On me: Smoky, dark, and remarkably smooth. I get caramel, tobacco smoke, and opium—the caramel has lost some of its sweetness, calming down to a deep browned, slightly burnt sugar; the tobacco and opium balance each other beautifully, smoky yet solid, dark yet smooth. There's also a touch of spice and a heart of resin that further makes this a smooth, solid blend. I'm still reminded of Glowing Vulva—like GV's teak and lotus, this is a smooth but sweet combination, though Red Lantern is many shades darker. Scent-color is dark caramel; scent-texture is gummy opium wafted by dark smoke. Throws is moderate to low.
Verdict: I was wary of the tobacco and the smokiness, but Red Lantern is a delightful surprise. This blend works, and it works like a dream. It's rich, dark, smoky, smooth, sweet, with a sense of intimate sexuality. It hovers just above the skin. The smooth smoke is a delicate balance. I can't stop sniffing, and I sort of want to bathe in it. So, yes, this is absolutely a keeper, and I'm so glad to have stumbled upon this lovely aged bottle.
DRAGON'S MILK (GC, Ars Draconis)
A truly fae nectar! Dragon's blood resin and honeyed vanilla.
In the vial: Smokey sweet and red—I'm actually reminded of candy.
On me: This is not what I expected, but it is delightful. The dragon's blood resin is smoky, spicy, rich, and dark—lmoreso than I expected for this blend, and moreso than it usually is on my skin. The honey and vanilla are smooth and deep and gently sweet. On the skin the candyness disappears, leaving just a hint of non-foody silky sweetness; the usual fruity/floral aspects of DBR are incredibly subdued, mostly contributing a round redness. This is dark, spicy, warm, full, and slightly sweet. Scent-color is a dark dim red; scent-color is spicy powder floating over silky cream. Throw is moderate to low; wear-length is moderate to high.
Verdict: I think I was expecting a sweeter, lighter, candy-like scent, but the dragon is not missing from Dragon's Milk. I don't know where the spiciness comes from, but I'm glad it's here. This is a spicy, warm, sweet scent with radiates from the skin like one's own warmth; it's unexpectedly deep, and perfectly intriguing. I am so thankful that I have a whole bottle of this blend—I imagine I'll be wearing it often, and I'm equally excited to see it age. Absolutely a keeper, and a new favorite.
AVE MARIA GRATIA PLENA (GC, Ars Amatoria)
Rosewood with Sicilian lemon peel, red Mysore sandalwood, pale musks, sweet mountain sage and a dusting of lily, night-blooming jasmine and orris.
In the vial: A great deal of sharp, bright, light lemon over a light-colored floral perfume.
On me: The lemon calms on the skin, turning into a glowing yellow brightness cast over the other notes. The florals are white, perfumey, and a touch sweet. Something, probably the pale musks, has come out to provide a slightly deeper and more solid grounding. Over time the rose of the rosewood amps on me, as it is wont to do, pink, velvety, and a bit cloying. It reminds me of similar blends in the catalog which feature lemon and pale florals, but this blend is particularly pale and glowing. Scent-color is gold-tinged white light.
Verdict: This is perhaps the antithesis of everything I look for in a blend, so it's no surprise that I don't like it. But, were my tastes different, perhaps I might—this is a light, gently radiant, slightly masculine, perfumey-floral blend of bright lemon, white florals, and just the hint of a solid background. It's not unpleasant, it's just not something that I'd ever want to wear. I'll pass on my imp.
Soft, deep earth notes with myrrh, amber, pomegranate, incense, red currant, rose and vanilla.
In the vial: Deep fruit against a dark background. It's slightly tart, almost reminding me of plum; there's a faint floral component in the background.
On me: Rose usually steals the show on my skin, but thankfully it stays subdued here. And goodness, with obedient rose this is simply lovely. Slightly tart, full, red fruit (primarily pomegranate) just touched by velvety red rose, set against a shadowed background of resin and a touch of dirt. Full, rich, dark, tart, slightly sweet—and I am in love. It reminds me distinctly a more nuanced, complex itteration of Hymn to Proserpine. Scent color is shadowed and subdued burgundy. Throw is moderate, but wear length is very long.
Verdict: I've wanted to try Queen of Clubs for a while, though the rose and rarity made me hesitate. Receiving it as a gift has been a blessing—because it is lovely and has bowled me head over heels. When I need something more complex than Hymn to Proserpine, I'll reach for this treasured imp. Feminine, powerful, rich, fruit against darkness—this is everything the description implies, but more lovely than I had imagined.
PERSEPHONE (GC, Excolo)
Pomegranate and rose.
In the vial: Why hello there, rose—but it's a sweeter, smoother version of rose than I'm used to. The pomegranate is not as tart as I expected, and rather rounds out the scent into a very rich, warm, sweetened fruity-floral.
On me: Ah, there is something of the missing tartness—which amps at first and then fades a bit during wear. Pomegranate and rose indeed: the rose is velvety, lush, and thickly floral; the pom is full, rich red, and fruity. The touch of tartness makes the scent more unique and less Glade candle. It's not particularly complex, but this scent is pleasant, lush, feminine, and full. Scent color is crimson. Throw is moderate to high.
Verdict: Persephone is pleasant, but it's a bit too simple and too floral for my tastes. I don't love it as much as the other pomegranate scents which I've had the pleasure to try lately. I do like it more than I expected, so don't necessarily let the rose scare you away—but this is without doubt a feminine fruity-floral blend. I'll forgo this for my other, darker pomegranate loves, but I'm glad I had the chance to try it.
RED LANTERN (LE, Lupercalia 2006)
Golden amber, blonde tobacco, Sudanese black coconut, rich caramel, black currant, white opium and delphinium laced with a sensual blend of Asian spice.
In the vial: Smoky, dark, and sweet—in the bottle, it's a darker cousin to Glowing Vulva, oddly enough.
On me: Smoky, dark, and remarkably smooth. I get caramel, tobacco smoke, and opium—the caramel has lost some of its sweetness, calming down to a deep browned, slightly burnt sugar; the tobacco and opium balance each other beautifully, smoky yet solid, dark yet smooth. There's also a touch of spice and a heart of resin that further makes this a smooth, solid blend. I'm still reminded of Glowing Vulva—like GV's teak and lotus, this is a smooth but sweet combination, though Red Lantern is many shades darker. Scent-color is dark caramel; scent-texture is gummy opium wafted by dark smoke. Throws is moderate to low.
Verdict: I was wary of the tobacco and the smokiness, but Red Lantern is a delightful surprise. This blend works, and it works like a dream. It's rich, dark, smoky, smooth, sweet, with a sense of intimate sexuality. It hovers just above the skin. The smooth smoke is a delicate balance. I can't stop sniffing, and I sort of want to bathe in it. So, yes, this is absolutely a keeper, and I'm so glad to have stumbled upon this lovely aged bottle.
DRAGON'S MILK (GC, Ars Draconis)
A truly fae nectar! Dragon's blood resin and honeyed vanilla.
In the vial: Smokey sweet and red—I'm actually reminded of candy.
On me: This is not what I expected, but it is delightful. The dragon's blood resin is smoky, spicy, rich, and dark—lmoreso than I expected for this blend, and moreso than it usually is on my skin. The honey and vanilla are smooth and deep and gently sweet. On the skin the candyness disappears, leaving just a hint of non-foody silky sweetness; the usual fruity/floral aspects of DBR are incredibly subdued, mostly contributing a round redness. This is dark, spicy, warm, full, and slightly sweet. Scent-color is a dark dim red; scent-color is spicy powder floating over silky cream. Throw is moderate to low; wear-length is moderate to high.
Verdict: I think I was expecting a sweeter, lighter, candy-like scent, but the dragon is not missing from Dragon's Milk. I don't know where the spiciness comes from, but I'm glad it's here. This is a spicy, warm, sweet scent with radiates from the skin like one's own warmth; it's unexpectedly deep, and perfectly intriguing. I am so thankful that I have a whole bottle of this blend—I imagine I'll be wearing it often, and I'm equally excited to see it age. Absolutely a keeper, and a new favorite.
AVE MARIA GRATIA PLENA (GC, Ars Amatoria)
Rosewood with Sicilian lemon peel, red Mysore sandalwood, pale musks, sweet mountain sage and a dusting of lily, night-blooming jasmine and orris.
In the vial: A great deal of sharp, bright, light lemon over a light-colored floral perfume.
On me: The lemon calms on the skin, turning into a glowing yellow brightness cast over the other notes. The florals are white, perfumey, and a touch sweet. Something, probably the pale musks, has come out to provide a slightly deeper and more solid grounding. Over time the rose of the rosewood amps on me, as it is wont to do, pink, velvety, and a bit cloying. It reminds me of similar blends in the catalog which feature lemon and pale florals, but this blend is particularly pale and glowing. Scent-color is gold-tinged white light.
Verdict: This is perhaps the antithesis of everything I look for in a blend, so it's no surprise that I don't like it. But, were my tastes different, perhaps I might—this is a light, gently radiant, slightly masculine, perfumey-floral blend of bright lemon, white florals, and just the hint of a solid background. It's not unpleasant, it's just not something that I'd ever want to wear. I'll pass on my imp.
